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If you're looking for the perfect place for a vacation, Beaverhead County, and neighboring Madison County, is one place you won't want to miss. Fishing. Hunting. Boating. Hiking. Historical sites. Museums. And wildlife all around. Historic architecture. Great restaurants. Motels and campgrounds to fit every budget and taste.

 

And most of all, plenty to see and do

This is the home of Montana's great gold rush. The land of the Vigilantes. Here's where they mean when they call Montana "The Big Sky Country." And here's where having "fun in the sun" is just a natural thing to do!
There are plenty of ghost towns to explore, like Bannack State Park, where Montana had its first Territorial Capital, and the restored gold camps of Virginia City and Nevada City east of here. And real, unpreserved ghost towns like Glendale, Hecla and Elkhorn.

There are hot springs at Elkhorn and Jackson to soothe weary joints. Great skiing, cross-country and downhill, and miles and miles of well-groomed snowmobile trails in the winter.

Is art your interest? Private galleries offer quality art for sale... and the University of Montana-Western Museum Gallery provides an unique experience.

Beaverhead National Forest is headquartered here, bigger than the state of Delaware, and brimming over with 100 lakes, streams and hundreds of miles of trails.

 

Stop at the Beaverhead County Museum

Dillon's Beaverhead County Museum is known for its excellent collection of artifacts of Montana's early gold rush days, as well as of Beaverhead County itself.

Centered around Dillon, Bannack and southwestern Montana, the Beaverhead County Museum entices visitors with its attractive outdoor displays of early-day mining equipment, settler's cabin, the area's first outdoor biffy with a flush toilet, a fully equipped sheep wagon and the striking brick railroad station that houses a theater, Travel Montana Visitor's Center and Chamber of Commerce.

A recent addition to the scene is the old Argenta School, a one-room schoolhouse of years gone by. The building is currently being restored and readied for use as an education display.

A third-of-a-mile of boardwalk, with each board branded with the names and brands of early-day families ties the whole complex together, wandering through rows of overhanging shade trees.

A city park completes the three-block long site, including a picnic area in the park, and in the museum's gazebo.

The museum itself is an attractive log structure that houses literally thousands of fascinating items from the area's past... including the stump of the gallows on which lawman turned outlaw Henry Plummer met his end, antique firearms, photographs, and artifacts from the area's earliest days.

The old Union Pacific Railroad Station, which is part of the museum, houses the Old Depot Theater, and a series of waterfowl, native American and rock displays. A diorama of Lewis and Clark is a featured attraction in the depot.

 

You're in Lewis and Clark Country

When the Lewis and Clark Expedition came to southwestern Montana, they spent more time here than in many areas... and several well-known sites are close by.

The first is the Beaver's Head Rock, about 15 miles north of Dillon, just to the north of MONT 41. It was here that Sacajawea recognized her surroundings.
Another is Clark's Lookout, just about 1.5 miles north of Dillon, off US 91, where Clark took a compass reading.

Rattlesnake Cliffs, noted in the journals, is south of Dillon, and Camp Fortunate is where Clark Canyon Dam now sits. It was here that Sacajawea met her brother and the Expedition gained horses for the westward trip.
Lemhi Pass, a difficult trip (but worth it) is west of Grant. Coming back, part of the Expedition went over Lost Trail Pass, and camped in the approximate location of Bannack.

Every August a special Lewis and Clark celebration week is planned, including a reenactment of the meeting of the Expedition with Chief Cameahwait at Camp Fortunate. This year is special, as we celebrate the 200th anniversary of Lewis and Clark's arrival in the Beaverhead. Corps of Discovery II traveling show is scheduled for Dillon in August, as well as 10 days of activities and events.

 

Bannack is the home of early day Montana history

It was in 1862 that the first really big gold strike in Montana was made, on the banks of Grasshopper Creek, which wends its way along the southern side of the ghost town

Once millions of dollars in the precious yellow dust was taken out of the streams and hills around Bannack, and over 3,000 people called it home. Now nearly 100 buildings, made of hand-hewn logs, finely finished lumber and brick, line the town’s old main street. A replica of the gallows, at the north end of town, up Hangman’s Gulch, tells at first glance this was one tough place.

Vigilantes, dismayed at the rash of killings and robberies in the gulch, and at Virginia City, organized its own brand of law... with a rope. In a few short months the Vigilantes went on to declare war on the “Innocents,” a gang of road agents, toughs, robbers and murderers, secretly headed by the elected Sheriff Henry Plummer.


They dispensed their brand of “necktie” justice quickly, hanging 29 of the “Innocents,” including Plummer. Soon the gold strikes at Virginia City, Last Chance Gulch in Helena and elsewhere took its toll on the population of Bannack. Although it lingered on for nearly 75 years, it would never again regain its ranking as the Queen of the goldcamps.

It lost its capital status to Virginia City, and in the 1880’s, the county courthouse to Dillon. Although some mining continued for years, it eventually declined to “ghost status.” In 1954 it became a state park.

Today Bannack provides a unique glimpse at the past. Bannack State Park is open from 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. every day, and the Visitor Center is open from 10 a.m. until 6:30 p.m. The center is open on weekends in October, and is closed during the winter. The center provides information and displays about Bannack, including videos that tell the history of the area.

Bannack Days is the third weekend of July, and features many fun things to do, from blacksmithing to candle making. The weekend closest to Halloween is the park's annual ghost walk, when the ghosts of Bannack return to life.

Crystal Park is place for fun, adventure

Crystal Park is a unique recreation area, set high in the Pioneer Mountains on the Pioneer Mountains National Scenic Byway, between Wise River and the Grasshopper Valley. The Butte Mineral and Gem Club maintains mining claims at the park so the public may use the facility to dig or search for the quartz crystals that abound in the decomposed granite soil of the park.
The park is open from May 15 to September 30, unless heavy snow closes it. A nominal fee will be charged. With a total area of about 200 acres, about 30-40 are presently open to digging. The digging area is within walking distance of a beautiful new paved parking facility, with water and rest rooms.

 

The Trumpeter Swan thrives at Red Rock Refuge

The trumpeter swan, a beautiful and graceful bird, nearly vanished from the three-state area of Idaho, Montana and Wyoming. Only a handful remained.
Red Rock Lakes Refuge, in the Centennial Valley, 28 miles east of Monida in southern Beaverhead County was formed in 1935 as a refuge for the trumpeters. As a National Wildlife Refuge, Red Rock Lakes provides shelter and feed in the marshy areas of the lake. Today, from 400-500 swans call the tri-state area home, and winter populations reach as high as 1,500. Wild flocks of the trumpeters have been reestablished in several other states as well.

The best place to observe the trumpeters is in the open areas near Upper Red Rock Lake from April through September. In addition, 18 other types of waterfowl are at the refuge. Moose are year round residents, with deer, antelope and elk during the summer. Picnic and camping facilities are available nearby, with fishing, hunting and boating permitted in specific areas during certain seasons. Two resorts are nearby, too.


Big Hole Battlefeld recalls 1877 tragedy

Just a few miles west of Wisdom lies the site of the Big Hole Battlefield, a reminder of a sad and tragic chapter in our American heritage.

Led by Chief Joseph, the Nez Perce Indians made a heroic and masterful flight from Idaho to the Canadian border in 1877. About 800 Nez Perce, including 125 warriors, camped along the east bank of the Big Hole River. For two months they had attempted to elude pursuing Army and volunteer forces led by Col. John Gibbon of the U. S. 7th Infantry.

At dawn, on August 9, Gibbon attacked, prematurely, because he was spotted by a member of the Nez Perce, and the camp was awakened when a volunteer fired a shot. The soldiers opened fire on the sleeping Indian camp, but the Nez Perce rallied, forcing the soldiers to retreat, even overrunning a Mountain Howitzer position and stealing the field piece after only two shots.
The Nez Perce, fighting a rear guard action, pinned down Gibbon’s forces and escaped to continue their flight toward the Canadian border, with heavy losses to warriors, women and children. Just south of the border, troops caught up with the Nez Perce, forcing their surrender.


The Big Hole Battlefield is a National Historic Site and features a well-interpreted trail and historical center. It is open seven-days a week, all year long. The battle is commemorated with a ceremony every August, on its anniversary. Call (406) 689-3155 for information.


Southern Beaverhead County is a great place to stop

Heading south from Dillon means entering a country full of history, scenery and interest.

Just south of Dillon, at Barretts Station, is an excellent park and camping facility. Lewis and Clark called the massive rock formation "Rattlesnake Cliffs," although it is sometimes confused with Beaverhead's Rock north of Dillon. Clark Canyon Dam, about 20 miles south of Dillon, offers plenty of camping, boating and fishing fun.

At Dell, a unique cafe, the Calf-A, is located in the old Dell school house, complete with the last lessons on the blackboards and books on the shelves. The historic old Dell Hotel has been completely refurbished into the Red Rock Inn, featuring accommodations and an excellent restaurant.

Lima, located just south of Dell, is an incorporated town that once was a major railroad center with nearly 400 men employed on the narrow-gauge Utah and Northern, and later the Union Pacific. The trains still roll through Lima, but no longer stop. Lima is the last place to catch a meal, or a night's sleep, before you enter Idaho. It also has a nice park, a superb tennis court and a refreshing town swimming pool.

The old historic buildings are interesting to see, as are the many log buildings and homes. If you have a minute, go up to the old Lima cemetery, which has many Victorian era tombstones, including an elaborate metal stone of an old railroad conductor, complete with lantern.

Lima is the place to be on the Fourth of July. The small town goes all out for a community-style celebration in the park.

South of Lima is Monida, the state-line. Now practically a ghost town, it makes for interesting pictures. Once, before the turn of the century, Monida was the jumping off place for Yellowstone Park from the narrow-gauge trains. Park-goers changed here for a ride in a big, red stagecoach for the Park.
Take off here to go to Lakeview and the Red Rocks National Wildlife Refuge. The road eventually goes to Henry's Lake and West Yellowstone for hardy travelers in the summer.


Don't miss the Ruby Valley

Going north from Dillon, Montana, on Highway 41, takes you to Twin Bridges, a pleasant community that offers a convenient stopping place on your way to Virginia City and Alder Gulch.

Just north of Twin Bridges is a unique round barn that once was the home of Spokane, a Kentucky Derby winner around the turn of the century. The old buildings just west of Twin Bridges are what used to be the Children's Home, closed in the 1970's. It was the original home of the Normal School, which later moved to Dillon.

At Sheridan is a hospital and park, for the travelers, complete with a public swimming pool. Sheridan offers several good places to eat and is an old stop on the former Northern Pacific Railroad.

From Alder to the south are mounds of overturned gravel, which are remains from a massive dredging operation in the first part of this century. The dredges found millions of dollars in gold, but left heaps of gravel in their wake.

Nevada City was once an early-day gold mining town and sight of much Vigilante activity. It pretty much disappeared, until Sen. Charles Bovey recreated it about 40 years ago. Dozens of old buildings offer the traveler a real taste of what life was like during the gold rush days. A railroad museum is also at Nevada City.

Just a mile or two down the road is Virginia City, the second Territorial Capital, after Bannack. The late Sen. Bovey and others have done substantial restoration work on the town... and much of it is now part of the State of Montana. Shops and restored buildings add a great deal of interest as they line the boardwalked streets.

The Virginia City Players do nightly melodrama shows in the summer, and afternoon vaudeville in the old brewery. Two good museums help explain the historical significance of the area, and provide a chance to rub shoulders with some real history of Montana. A train ride connects Virginia City and Nevada City in the summer.... many weekends with a steam engine for power.

Visitors can stay in the Fairweather Inn, which includes part of the old Goodrich Hotel from Bannack... or in several other hotels, motels and camp grounds. Just over the hill is Ennis, a gateway to Yellowstone Park.


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